A tech journalist and startup advisor with over a decade of experience covering UK innovation ecosystems and venture capital trends.
Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.
“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.
A tech journalist and startup advisor with over a decade of experience covering UK innovation ecosystems and venture capital trends.